Detailing RIBs and tenders

Why RIBs and tenders need their own approach

A tender is the workhorse that ferries guests, crew, groceries and gear between a yacht and the dock. A RIB, short for rigid inflatable boat, is a hard fiberglass or aluminum hull wrapped with inflatable tubes, and it is used as a tender, a patrol boat, a dive platform or a stand-alone fun boat. In South Florida these boats live hard lives. They sit in sun on a davit or a bow platform, they get launched into salty water several times a day, and they are rinsed quickly or not at all.

The biggest difference from a regular boat is the tube material. Tubes are made of fabric coated in synthetic rubber or a plastic-based membrane, and these coatings react to heat, UV, solvents and abrasives in ways that fiberglass and gelcoat do not. Products that work well on a hull can harm a tube. A mistake can leave chalky patches, softened seams or a tacky surface that never quite cures.

Another difference is scale. A tender has a small console, a few seats or a bench, a handful of cleats and a compact hull, and every surface is close together. Dirt on one area runs onto another. Detailing a tender is less about volume and more about order and care, and the right sequence keeps cleaning products off the parts they could harm.

This page covers how the tubes, hull, console, seating, hardware and storage are handled during a detail, which tasks owners can safely do themselves, and what to tell us when you call.

Tube material and what each type tolerates

Most RIB tubes are made of one of two broad material families. One is a coated fabric where a synthetic rubber layer sits over a woven base. The other is a thermoplastic membrane that is welded rather than glued. They look similar from a distance and clean in similar ways, but their tolerance for products and heat is not identical.

The safe starting point for either is fresh water, mild soap and a soft brush or sponge. Dirt and salt should come off with gentle agitation. Harsh solvents, strong degreasers, abrasive pads and heavy polishing compounds can strip surface coatings, soften glue lines or scuff the material permanently. A detailer who works on tubes should ask what the tube is made from, check the manufacturer's care guidance if there is a label or manual, and test any stronger product on a hidden spot first.

Stains on tubes come from fuel, oil, sunscreen, fender marks, dock rubbing, algae and general grime. Many lift with the mild approach and a little patience. Some, such as deep fuel stains or dye transfer from dock lines and fenders, may not lift fully without risking the material. A detailer should tell you plainly when a stain is a risk to remove, rather than scrubbing until the tube is damaged.

A protectant made for inflatable materials can slow UV damage. Not every protectant suits every tube, so the choice depends on the material and what the manufacturer allows. Applying the wrong product can leave a slick or sticky film, which is why the material question comes first.

• Start with fresh water, mild soap and a soft brush
• Avoid strong solvents, abrasive pads and heavy compounds on tubes
• Test any stronger product on a hidden area first
• Choose protectants made for the specific tube material

Seams, glue lines and the limits of cleaning

Tube seams are the weak points of any inflatable. Over time sun, flexing and salt can lift a seam edge, loosen a patch or open a tiny gap that leaks air slowly. These are repair matters, not detailing matters, and a tube repair is done by an inflatable boat repair specialist or the manufacturer's service network.

What a detailer can do is clean seam edges gently so dirt does not hide a developing problem. Clean seams make it easier to see a lifting edge, a bubble in the coating or a discolored line where air is escaping. If we notice any of these during cleaning, we will tell you so you can have the tube checked before it fails on the water.

Do not use a pressure washer close to seams or on the tube surface. A tight stream can lift edges that are already weak and can force water into places it should not go. A garden hose with moderate flow is the right tool. Our guide to avoiding pressure washer damage covers the same warning for other parts of a boat.

Valves and caps should be kept clean and dry. Salt crust around a valve can interfere with sealing, and a detailer will wipe these areas without loosening or tampering with valve components. If you suspect a valve is slowly leaking, a repair shop should check it.

The hull: fiberglass, aluminum and the keel area

The rigid hull under a RIB is usually fiberglass, sometimes aluminum. The fiberglass version has a gelcoat or paint finish that can oxidize and stain like any other. The aluminum version is often painted or left raw, and raw aluminum shows white corrosion bloom when salt sits on it.

Fiberglass hulls get the usual treatment: wash, check the finish, polish where needed and protect. Because a tender is often launched from a davit, a bow platform or a trailer, scuffs and scratches from contact are common. Light scratches can be improved with careful polishing. Deeper gouges that go through the gelcoat are a repair question. See our page on scratches on gelcoat for how we tell the difference.

The bottom of a tender collects different things than a yacht hull. If the tender is kept in the water, it grows slime and sometimes barnacles near the keel and along the chine. If it is kept on a davit or trailer, it collects dust, bird droppings and the stains from the cradle or bunks. A detailer cleans what is reachable and recommends a haul-out or bottom service for heavy growth.

Where the tube meets the hull, the glue line and the collar attachment need gentle treatment. Cleaning here is done by hand, with soft brushes, to avoid lifting the bond.

Console, seating and compact interiors

The console on a tender is small but busy. It usually holds a steering wheel, a throttle, a kill-switch lanyard, perhaps a small instrument or compass, and a handful of switches. Salt, sunscreen and hand oil collect on the wheel and shifter, and sun fades the plastic housings.

A detailer wipes these with a barely damp cloth and a gentle cleaner, never soaking the console. Gauges and instruments are cleaned with a soft cloth. Wheel and grip surfaces are cleaned of oils so they feel less sticky. If the console has a lanyard or kill switch, the detailer leaves it connected as designed and does not alter safety equipment.

Seating on a tender ranges from a simple bench to a few molded seats with vinyl cushions. Vinyl takes the usual marine abuse. Sunscreen, bait, drinks and wet clothing leave stains and mildew in the seams. The vinyl is cleaned with marine-safe products and rinsed well. Our page on vinyl upholstery cleaning covers that work in more depth.

Small storage compartments, bow lockers and under-seat spaces collect water, sand and the occasional forgotten item. These are emptied and cleaned. Anything that looks like it has been damp for a long time may have mildew, and it is treated before it spreads to cushions or stored equipment.

Hardware, cleats, lifting points and the engine area

Small boats rely on a lot of small hardware: cleats, bow eyes, towing eyes, lifting points, rub rail fittings, handrails and grab lines. These get salt, scuffs and rust bleed. Stainless pieces can show tea staining and pitting. See the page on stainless hardware cleaning for what that work involves.

Lifting points deserve a note. They carry the load when a tender is hoisted onto a davit or a deck. A detailer will clean them and look for obvious corrosion, cracks or wear, but cannot certify them. If a lifting point looks worn, rusty or cracked, have a rigger inspect it before the next hoist. A failed lifting point is a serious safety matter.

The outboard or jet unit on a tender is a mechanical component. Cleaning the exterior cowling, wiping salt from the lower unit and rinsing the shroud is part of normal care. Servicing, flushing systems, impeller work or fuel system repair belong to a marine mechanic. A detailer does not open an engine or alter its components.

Fuel tanks and lines on small boats can leak at fittings. If we see fuel stains around a tank, a hose or a connection, we will point it out. A fuel smell on a small boat is worth taking seriously, and the right call is to have a marine mechanic inspect it before running.

Trailer, davit and garage storage

How a tender is stored changes how it ages. A tender stored on a trailer in a driveway or a yard sees different conditions than one stored on a yacht's bow, in a davit or inside a garage.

Trailer storage exposes the tender to dust, pollen, rain, bird droppings and, in many neighborhoods, falling leaves. Where bunks or rollers touch the hull, they can leave marks and trap moisture. Trailer tires and frames can throw road grime onto the hull during travel. A detail on a trailer boat includes the hull, the visible parts of the trailer that contact it, and the bunks. Rust on a trailer is a trailer repair matter.

Davit and deck storage puts a tender in constant sun and salt spray from the mother yacht's own spray and wash. Covers help but can trap moisture and chafe the finish if they are not fitted properly. A cover that flaps in the wind can scuff gelcoat and tube fabric. Make sure the cover is clean and secure.

Garage and covered storage is the gentlest environment, but even there, humidity and closed air can encourage mildew. Leave the boat as dry as possible, and ventilate the space if you can. Related reading on the subject is in boat storage and cover care.

A realistic care routine between professional visits

The best habit for any tender is a freshwater rinse after every saltwater use. It sounds basic, but it is the biggest protection for tubes, gelcoat, metal and moving parts. Let the boat dry, open lockers, and cover it only when it is dry.

Once a month or so, give the tubes a gentle wash with mild soap, a soft brush and plenty of rinsing. Wipe the console and seats. Check seams, valves, lifting points and hardware with your eyes. Catching a small problem early is worth far more than any product.

Avoid household cleaners that contain bleach, ammonia or strong solvents. Our guide on why household cleaners damage boats explains the reasons. Tubes in particular suffer from these products because they are often sensitive to harsh chemistry.

Dark tubes and light tubes behave differently. Light tubes show dirt more but reflect heat. Dark tubes hide dirt but get very hot, which accelerates material wear. Either way, shade when parked and protectants made for tubes will extend life. A detailer can recommend a rhythm that fits how often you use the tender.

For tenders on larger yachts, coordination with the captain and crew helps. Our page for captain and crew support explains how detailing is scheduled around a crew's routine and the mother vessel's own work.

What to have ready and how the call goes

When you call, tell us what kind of tender it is. Is it a RIB with fabric tubes or a hard-bottom inflatable, a fiberglass tender, a jet tender or an aluminum skiff? If you know the tube material, say so, and if there is a manufacturer's care sheet, mention what it recommends. This lets us choose products that suit it.

Describe where the tender is stored: on a trailer, on a davit, on a bow platform or in the water at a slip. Tell us about the condition you are seeing, such as chalky tubes, fuel stains, sticky spots, mildew in the seating or scratches on the hull.

Quotes are given by phone only. Small, straightforward jobs may be quoted during the call. Larger or more complicated work may need an on-site visit, and there is a service call charge, which we explain before anyone is dispatched. There are no prices on this website.

Be ready to say where the tender can be reached. A trailer in a yard, a dinghy dock at a marina and a davit on a yacht each have different access, and marinas may have rules for outside contractors. Our page on dockside detailing and marina rules explains what to expect.

If your tender is looking tired, sticky or stained, or if you are preparing for a trip and want it clean and protected, call and tell us what you see. We will walk through the right approach for your boat.

Questions people ask

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